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Pool Spa Filter Clean-Backwash, what is it?
Draining Your Swimming Pool
Pool Chemical Precautions
Swimming Pool Operation
Swimming Pool Sanitation
Vacuuming Your Swimming Pool
Water Chemistry
The Correct Water Level in Your Swimming Pool
Pool Spa Filter Clean-Backwash, what is it?
Backwashing a pool filter involves reversing the flow of water through the filter as to wash away any particles trapped on the filter media.
Pool-spa water normally flows from the swimming pool-spa, through the filter, where the filter media traps particles in suspension. The, now clean water, is directed back into the swimming pool or spa. As more and more water flows through the filter, more and more particles get trapped in the filter media. Eventually the number of trapped particles is large enough that the flow of water is reduced, causing the pressure to rise, and the quality of the swimming pool or spa water to suffer; it is time to backwash.
In the backwash mode, water flows from the pool through the filter media, but this time in the reverse direction, flushing out the trapped particles, or at least most of them. This "dirty" water is not thrown back into the pool; instead it is redirected to the waste line.
Backwash your Swimming pool Sand Filter
Make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions when handling your sand filter.
Pool-spa sand filters should be backwashed when the pressure gage reads 8 to 10 lbs above the clean reading the clean reading is the pressure reading after the filter has been thoroughly cleaned/ backwashed.
As stated before, make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions, but as a general guideline, this is the procedure used to backwash a sand filter equipped with a rotary valve:
1. Turn off pump
2. Push down on the handle, and rotate to BACKWASH, make sure that the waste line is unobstructed.
3. Turn on pump
4. Keep an eye on the pressure gage to spot any abnormal pressure which will indicate a problem. If there is a problem, turn off pump immediately, find and fix the problem.
5. Run pump until water runs clear (about 3 minutes)
6. Turn pump motor off.
7. Push down on valve lever and turn to RINSE, let run for 15 to 30 seconds.
8. Turn off pump and turn valve to the FILTER position.
9. Turn on pump
Backwash your Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Pool-Spa Filter
Make sure you follow the manufacturer's directions when handling a DE filter.
DE filters should be backwashed when the pressure gage reads 8 to 10 lbs above the clean reading the clean reading is the pressure reading after the filter has been thoroughly cleaned- backwashed.
Pay particular attention to the amount of DE that you add after a backwash. Should you add too little, the grid will quickly get clogged with dirt, bad news! Should you add too much, it won't take long either for the filter to get clogged up again.
As stated before, make sure you follow the manufacturer's instructions, but as a general guideline, this is the procedure used to backwash a DE filter equipped with a rotary valve:
1. Turn off pump
2. Push down on the valve handle, and rotate to BACKWASH, make sure that the waste line is unobstructed
3. Open air bleeder assembly on filter
4. Turn on pump
5. Keep an eye on the pressure gage to spot any abnormal pressure which will indicate a problem. If there is a problem, turn off pump immediately, find and fix the problem.
6. Run pump until water runs clear.
7. Turn pump off.
8. Push down on valve lever and turn to RINSE, let run for 5 to 20 seconds.
9. Turn off pump and turn valve to the FILTER position.
10. Turn on pump
11. Add DE as required by your filter manufacturer, usually around 1 lb/10 feet square of filter area.
Clean you're Swimming Pool or SPA Cartridge Filter
Cartridge filters are not backwashed; instead, they are taken out of the tank and hosed clean; usually with a pressure washer.
Cartridge filters should be cleaned when the pressure gage reads 8 to 10 lbs above the clean reading. The clean reading is the pressure reading after the filter has been thoroughly cleaned.
This is the general procedure used to clean a Cartridge filter.
1. Turn off pump
2. Remove filter lid
3. Hose filter thoroughly
4. Replace filter in tank
5. Replace filter lid.
6. Turn on pump
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Draining Your Swimming Pool
A swimming pool should never really be fully drained because of the ground water pressure, you run the risk of damaging the structure of the pool and in the worse case scenario the pool walls can buckle or even collapse. However there will be a time to drain your pool if say you need a new liner or repairs need to be carried out on the pool. In this case you should always contact Project Pool to get expert advice on how to do so.
Here is a tip for draining a swimming pool
You should drain a pool very slowly and in three parts, close the skimmer line so the only suction is coming from the main drain. Throttle down the main drain and turn your multiport valve to waste. Drain the pool in three stages waiting at least twelve hours before commencing the next stage. But remember to always contact us before doing so.
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Pool Chemical Precautions
DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHLORINE; FUMES, SMOKE AND FIRE MAY RESULT. DO NOT ALLOW CHLORINE TO COME IN CONTACT WITH PETROLEUM PRODUCTS OR ACID; FIRE OR EXPLOSION MAY RESULT.
Store pool chemicals in tight containers separate from one another in a well ventilated area. Measure and add chemicals separately. Do not mix with one another before adding to your pool water. Follow manufacturer's instructions listed on product containers.
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Swimming Pool Operation
Pool Skimmer
Water flows from the pool through the skimmer then into the pump. The pool skimmer is designed to break water surface tension and remove floating debris as it floats by the skimmer opening. The flapper (weir) or floating (weir) inside the skimmer throat allows debris to flow into the skimmer then keeps it from drifting back out. Be sure the weir opens and closes freely. If stuck in the closed position, water from the pool cannot flow freely into the skimmer and pump damage may result. Debris is caught in the skimmer basket and should be removed and emptied as required. Excessive debris can clog the basket resulting in ineffective skimming and or damage to the pump.
Main Drain
Water from the bottom of the pool flows through the main drain to the pump. The term main drain implies a way to remove the pool water, however its primary purpose is to circulate deep water, not drain the pool.
Return Inlets
The adjustable return inlets return filtered water back to the pool. Adjust one return inlet down and to the left of centre. Adjust the other slightly up and left of centre. This allows both deep and shallow water circulation along with clockwise water rotation.
Pump and Motor
The pump and motor pull water from the main drain and or the skimmer, then pushes the water through the filter and, if so equipped, through the heater, brominator or chlorinator then back to the pool return inlets. If allowed to run dry, the pump and adjacent piping can be damaged.
Strainer (next to pump).
The lint and hair strainer basket collects lint, hair, etc., and prevents it from entering the pump and filter. Clean as required. Before removing lid to strainer basket, be sure to turn motor to pump OFF. After strainer lid is re-secured, turn pump on, and open air relief valve on top of filter. Silicone based grease or aqua lube on the O-ring in the lid will assure you of a better seal. Sandy dirt collected in the bottom of the strainer housing can be washed out by removing the 1/4 inch plug at the bottom of the strainer housing and flushing with a hose.
Time Clock
The time clock turns the pump motor on and off at adjustable pre-determined times. For best results the time clock should run the pump 6 to 8 hours when water is at swimming temperature and 3 to 5 hours at lower temperatures. It is best to set the time clock to cycle on and off twice in a 24 hour period to better balance circulation, filtration and sanitizer disbursement.
Light
Contact us for bulb replacement and instructions. Also see our lighting section
Filter
Your pool filter is designed to mechanically clean your pool water by trapping tiny particles inside. The cleaner the water, the less sanitizer and water chemistry adjustments will be required. Project Pool will advise you regarding care and maintenance of the filter system for your pool.
Filter Pressure Gauge
The pressure gauge located on top of the filter tells you the condition of your filter and circulating system. With the filter clean and the suction and return valves open, check and note the gauge reading. When the gauge rises 10 pounds above this starting pressure, it is time to clean or backwash the filter. If the gauge falls below the starting pressure, check the skimmer and hair and lint strainer for debris. If the reading remains low, check for an air leak at the hair and lint strainer lid. If low pressure persists, check for cracked or broken piping on the inlet side of the pump.
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Swimming Pool Sanitation
Bromine and chlorine are the most popular pool water sanitizers for your Pool. Alternate sanitizers are available and can be effective. Contact your San Juan Dealer or pool professional regarding alternative sanitizer.
Bromine and chlorine kill bacteria and control algae in pool water when maintained at relatively low but constant levels. At higher levels, they become shocking agents that kill algae and oxidize organic waste such as body oil, urine, perspiration and air borne contaminants.
Bromine is less caustic and aggressive than chlorine resulting in reduced eye and skin irritation. Bromine will not fade bathing suits or yellow blonde hair. Bromine adds gentle action will prolong the gel-coat pool finish and equipment. The primary advantage of chlorine is lower product cost.
If bromine or chlorine levels are allowed to fluctuate from low to normal, algae has an opportunity to flourish at the lower levels then become uncontrollable at the normal levels.
Do not use your pool skimmer as a sanitizer feeder. Not only can this lead to damage to your pool equipment, it is inefficient and costly. Bromine and chlorine can both be fed to your pool water through relatively inexpensive in line feeders. Chlorine can also be fed through a floating chlorinator. Do not use chlorine on indoor pools. The gases from chlorine in water are carcinogenic.
Bromine Sanitation
Fill your brominator with bromine tablets and set the feeder to full open. Run the filtering system 24 hours a day and periodically test the bromine level until the bromine readings reach 3 P.P.M. then adjust the bromine feeder to half open and set your pump time clock to the selected operation time. Check the bromine level 24 hours later. If the bromine reads high or low, adjust the feeder accordingly and recheck 24 hours later. Bromine levels should be checked at least bi-weekly after the initial adjustments.
Chlorine Sanitation
In line, off line, and floating chlorine feeders are available for dispensing chlorine to your pool water.
Chlorine is rapidly exhausted by ultra violet light. This results in excessive consumption in summer's direct sun. Cyanuric acid (stabilizer or conditioner) may be added to your pool water. Cyanuric acid acts like an invisible blanket that stops U.V. attack, and is most effective when kept at 40 to 60 P.P.M. Cyanuric acid does not degrade or evaporate so caution should be used not to add too much. High levels of cyanuric acid reduce chlorine effectiveness and distort water chemistry values.
Shock
Organic contaminants including saliva, urine, body oil, sun tan lotion and air borne particles build up in pool water and combine with sanitizer. The result is bromanines (Bromine) or chloramines (chlorine) which give off a strong odour and can dramatically reduce the sanitizer effectiveness. These contaminants can be eliminated by oxidizing or shocking the pool water. Bromine and chlorine sanitized pool water can be shocked by adding an appropriate amount of chlorine or potassium mono persulfate (oxygen shock). See product container for proper application. Do not add shock products to your pool water in one location as this may result in damage to the gel-coat surface. Add small quantities in several locations around the pool. When using gradual chlorine for shocking, dissolve the granular in a large pail of water, then add the liquid to the pool water. Your test kit will indicate the need for shocking. It is also recommended that you shock your pool water after heavy rains and high swimmer loads. Turn off your sanitizer feeder and operate the pool filtering system for 24 hours after shocking.
Algae Control
Algae cannot adhere to your San Juan Pool finish, but can grow and flourish in the pool water. Algae blooms may first appear as cloudiness before it turns colour. There are three primary types of algae: green, mustard (yellow or light brown) and black (blue-green). Black algae require a rough porous surface to survive so it is of no concern in your San Juan pool. Bromine and chlorine at normal levels are effective algae stats (able to control algae growth). Chlorine at 10 P.P.M. is an effective algaecide (able to kill algae). See container labels for proper application. Chlorine can be used in a bromine pool for shocking or algae killing. Commercial algaecides are also available. Contact Project Pool for further information. Properly maintained water chemistry and constant sanitizer levels will effectively reduce or eliminate algae problems.
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Vacuuming Your Swimming Pool
If the pool is not dirty, simply brush the walls and bottom, skipping the vacuuming completely. However if the pool or spa is dirty then you need to vacuum it.
Vacuum to filter
Dirt collected from the pool or spa is sent to the filter of the circulation system. This is Vacuuming to filter.
1. Run the circulation system correctly and that all suction is concentrated at the skimmer port. Use your skimmer diverter for this process if dealing with a single port skimmer. If the system includes valves for diversion of suction between the main drain and the skimmer, close the main drain valve completely and turn the open skimmer valve completely. If there are two skimmers in the pool, close off one by covering the skimmer suction port with a tennis ball, there by increasing the suction in the other one. On large pools, you might have to vacuum each half separately.
2. Attach your vacuum head to the telescopic pole and attach the vacuum hose to the vacuum head. Slowly feed the hose straight down into the pool; water will fill the hose and displace the air. When you have fed all the hose into the pool, there is water at the other end.
3. To avoid draining the water from the hose keep it at water level, slide the hose through the skimmer opening and into the skimmer. Attach the hose to the diverter (with two-port skimmers, insert the hose cuff into the skimmer's suction port). The hose and vacuum head now have suction. The suction port might be in the side of the pool below the skimmer in older pools. In this case you might need to put tennis ball over the skimmer suction port to increase the suction at the wall port. Make sure the hose does not contain a significant amount of air for if air reaches the pump, you will lose prime. If this occurs, remove the vacuum hose, re-prime the pump, and then try again.
4. To vacuum a pool or spa, work your way around the bottom and sides of the pool. If the pool is dirty, vacuum slowly to pick all the dirt, for moving the vacuum head too quickly, will stir up the dirt rather than suck it into the vacuum. If the suction is strong it sucks the vacuum head to the pool surfaces, then you need to adjust the skimmer diverter or valves to reduce the flow. You might also need to lower the wheels on the vacuum head, raising the vacuum head itself. If the suction is weak, you might want to lower the vacuum head or you might need to move the head more slowly around the pool to vacuum it thoroughly.
If the pool is very dirty, strainer basket or filter may be filled. When suction becomes weak, stop vacuuming and empty the strainer basket or clean the filter.
If the pool contains both fine dirt and leaves, the leaves will clog the strainer basket. You can use a leaf canister, which is an inline strainer that collects the leaves and allows fine dirt to pass on to the filter.
If the spa operates on the same circulation system, as the swimming pool, simply lift the vacuum out of the pool and immediately place it into the spa. Do this quickly because while the vacuum is out of the water, air enters the hose, causing it temporarily to lose suction. There should be enough water in the line for it to re-prime itself.
5. When you are finished, remove the vacuum head from the water. The suction will rapidly pull the water from the hose so it is advisable to pull the vacuum head from the pool and the suction end of the hose from the skimmer simultaneously, remove the hose from the water, and drain it on the deck.
6. After removing the equipment from the pool, check the pump strainer basket and filter for any debris. Clean if needed. Replace the skimmer basket.
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Water Chemistry
There are 4 main components that make up pool water chemistry; PH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness and T.D.S.
Potential Hydrogen (PH) is the relative acidity or base of your pool's water. For example: low PH would be acidic and high PH would be base. The human tear has a PH value of 7 and is classified as neutral. The ideal PH value for your Pool is 7.2 to 7.4. PH levels should be checked bi-weekly.
Total Alkalinity (T.A.) is composed of the minerals in your pool water that buffer PH and is measured in parts per million (1 P.P.M. = 1 part per million parts of water). If the mineral levels are too high, then the PH will constantly drift up. If the mineral levels are too low, the PH will drift down or fluctuate. The proper total alkalinity level for your Pool is 125 to 150 P.P.M. and should be checked weekly.
Calcium Hardness (C.H.) is the relative hardness of your pool water, and is measured in P.P.M. If the water is too soft, it will be aggressive and erode pool equipment such as heaters, ladders, tiles and even the colour of your liner. If the water is too hard, deposits will form on the pool equipment and finish. 175 to 225 P.P.M. is the proper hardness for your Pool and should be checked monthly.
Total Dissolved Solids (T.D.S.) are the sum total of all materials in solution in your pool water, and is measured in P.P.M. T.D.S. should be checked annually by a Project Pool professional. T.D.S. above 1,500 P.P.M. reduces sanitizer effectiveness and causes the water to become abrasive. Note: During periods of heavy rain or high swimmer loads, all of the above water chemistry values, except T.D.S. should be checked more frequently.
When tests show all the above water chemistry items to be within the recommended ranges, it is in balance. Balanced water will be clean, clear, and blue and sparkles. Eye and skin irritation will be reduced, and pool equipment and surface life will be extended. Balanced water improves sanitation effectiveness and reduces or eliminates the necessity of adding costly water chemistry supplements. Prolonged improper water chemistry and high sanitizer levels can lead to pool equipment and surface damage.
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The Correct Water Level in Your Swimming Pool
TOO LOW
The correct level of water in your pool is very important, if the water level drops below the skimmer while the skimmer is open you run the risk of sucking air back into the system, this can result in an air lock in the filter or the pipes but worse of all if the pump runs dry for to long it will burn out and the seal in the pump will crack and you could find the whole pump needs replacing.
TOO HIGH
If the water level gets too high either by leaving a hose pipe on, or not checking the level after serious rain fall, then the skimmer will not do its job correctly. Also if you have a liner pool and the water level is over where the liner fits into the liner track just below the coping stones, then you run the risk of water getting behind the liner and creating unsightly bulges, pulling the liner out of its track and even worse the water will eventually start to cores damage underneath the pool and start to leak.
JUST RIGHT
The ideal level for any pool is half way up the skimmer opening; this will allow the skimmer to pull leaves and other debris of the surface. Also you have a good chance of noticing any changes in the water level if you check it every week and know that it should be half way up the skimmer.
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